The Culture Within
How tradition, resistance, and fermentation reshaped a life in food.

Claudia Victoria Alzamora Moreno
I was born in Penonomé, Coclé, a small town in Panamá where tradition runs deep and love is often served in bowls. My mother is a pragmatic doctor and always pressed for time, but she’d cook for us on weekends. Her sopa de costilla is one of my most treasured memories. I learned by watching her, and one day, when I was going to add dried oregano, she leaned over and said, gently: “Add this at the end, when the heat is off, so it infuses smoothly.” She wasn’t always soft-spoken. But that day, in the kitchen, her tenderness shaped me more than she probably realized.
I didn’t grow up thinking I’d become a chef. I wanted to be a historian or an anthropologist. But the university in my town didn’t offer those programs. Cooking was just a teenage thought. Still, the idea of food as a short, technical study stuck. I packed my things and left to study in Lima, Perú. Looking back, it was one of the best decisions I ever made.
Perú taught me that gastronomy is a mirror of a country’s soul. They had rediscovered and celebrated their culinary identity, and in that process, I began to understand what ours could become. Studying at San Ignacio de Loyola gave me techniques, reverence for the stories behind ingredients, and the discipline to build a future around them. Having mentors with professional training made me sincerely appreciate attending an academic institution to professionalize my career and my art. Cooking has been a profession that anyone with enough discipline and dedication can pursue. But voluntarily dedicating yourself to studying your work—the whys and the hows—means that cooking and chefs are beginning to receive the professional recognition they deserve.
The first professional kitchen I worked in offered a glimpse of what this profession would be like in my country: a bittersweet reality. I experienced unpaid hours, biweekly payments often three days late, and the challenge of working alongside people who exhibited little professional ethics. The procedures for ensuring food safety were poorly managed, and I dealt with extremely rude and corrupt bosses. That restaurant is closed now, and honestly, I’m glad. Although I have had better experiences since then, I will never forget this as the introduction to the real world that my professors and more experienced colleagues had spoken of so often.
My biggest challenge was realizing I didn’t love the restaurant model as it existed. The sacrifice of your private life, the creative stagnation, and the hierarchy that silenced reason were all too much. I couldn’t pretend it was okay, so I left. I cried, sat in silence, and reimagined what this career could be for me. I turned my grief into a path of my own.
I’ve found inspiration in unexpected places: in nature, fermentation, and remembering that discomfort sparks growth. My country inspires me. Our ingredients, our culture, our people—they fuel my work. That’s how @fermentnation.88 was born. I started a personal brand by researching food preservation techniques, fermentation, and food’s role in our lives.
One moment that changed me forever happened during my internship in the Basque Country at a 3-Michelin-star restaurant. It was intense—the pressure, the speed, the perfection expected at every turn. Over time, I cultivated a closer relationship with my chef de partie to the point where I knew he needed a shot of whiskey when he placed a small flan container on the plate. It was a secret code between us. One day, when we were sharing the plating process, he looked at me for a minute at one point of the shift with vivacious but tired eyes and said, “Anger is a problem, isn’t it, Claudia?” And I replied, “Anger is a cancer, PD.” In that moment, I learned that while I aspired for excellence, I wouldn’t lose myself fighting for someone else’s recognition.
But in that tough kitchen experience, I also found a connection like the young intern from Madrid, Pablo, who came into the team when I was already carrying more responsibility. I taught him, and he respected that. He listened. We helped each other, which made those grueling months not just bearable but memorable. He’s visited me in Panamá twice. We became family.
My kitchen philosophy is simple: if you believe something is possible, prove it, do it, and teach it. Don’t lead with ego—lead with proof and integrity.
I’m proud of many things—finishing my degree, surviving that Michelin internship, staying curious, and building @Fermentnation.88. But I’m most proud of not letting the industry swallow me whole.
Restaurant culture has its magic—teamwork, camaraderie, that indescribable rhythm. But it also has its poisons. I’ve seen too much pride disguised as tradition. I’ve learned to value what truly matters: people, respect, and empathy. If my coworker needs help, I will show up. If someone is struggling, I listen. It’s not about who yells the loudest. It’s about who shows up with both hands and a full heart.
I dream of an industry that honors its people as much as its plates, where producers are paid fairly, mental health is part of the conversation, and where regional cuisines are celebrated, not erased. I embody that daily through my work, values, and story.
For a long time, I thought none of my interests connected. But now I know better. There are infinite ways to practice gastronomy. I’ve just found mine.
Secret Sauce
- What’s the most unexpected ingredient you’ve ever worked with, and how did it change your perspective on cooking?
I don’t know if it’s an ingredient, but it is a biological agent. It’s the Koji fungus, and it made me understand that if applied to a single product, there are endless futures or possible outcomes.
- What’s your “guilty pleasure” meal?
Lechona frita con torrejitas de maíz nuevo.
- A food trend that you hate and why?
Things like “farm to table.” If it’s not from a farm, the soil, or the earth, where else will you get it from? It’s redundant, ridiculous, and in 80% of cases, it’s false. They’re front chefs; they reflect a tiny fraction of the reality of their cuisines. I hate when they link foods with spirituality, like cocoa, in regions where it has no sociocultural relevance. I find it unethical when they involve the native peoples of each region under the excuse of “giving value to what’s national.” They’re usually chefs who stop being people and become a brand. There’s little interest in marking a before and after in the lives of people in these communities, but it makes the chef’s work more praiseworthy and glorious. And I dislike “Instagram food” or “TikTok food.” They’re offensive and visually unpleasant.
- What’s the craziest shift you’ve ever worked in the kitchen? What happened, and how did you manage to get through it?
One where I had the most horrible migraine, I went to the bathroom to vomit twice, I saw bright spots, I was sweating cold, and I had low blood pressure. I don’t know how I was still standing. It was the pressure of knowing I had such a big responsibility. I discovered a new physical limit that day, but should have known when to stop.
5. What happened, and how did you manage to get through it?
I still don’t know how I can handle it. The mind really rules the body.
- What tips would you give to other cooks and chefs to help them navigate their culinary careers and find peace amid the chaos of the kitchen?
Stay true to yourself, be honest, and ask yourself, “What do I want?” and go get it.
- What’s an underrated ingredient and why?
It may sound silly, but the types of pepper are just there, but most of us don’t know how, when, or which one to use.
8. What’s a must-try dish from your kitchen or the one you’re proudest to have prepared?
I make a good Sopa de Costilla.
About Your City!
Penonomé, Panama
- If Anthony Bourdain or a chef came to your city, what would be the perfect tour itinerary from breakfast to dinner?
If Anthony Bourdain were to visit me in Penonomé, I’d take him to the market very early in the morning to buy freshly fried torrejitas de maíz. I’d take him to Aguadulce to eat suckling pig at “La Fula.” At noon, I’d have a hearty chicken sancocho at the old Gallo Pinto in the Penonomé Central. I’d take him to eat “ropa vieja con patacones” from my godmother María de Los Santos in the historic San Antonio neighborhood. In the afternoon, I’d go to Balneario Las Mendozas for some cold balboas. By 6 pm, Feya had already set up the saus at the central. But just like Bourdain, her saus stand no longer exists..