From Runways to Recipe Books
While others chased lights and cameras, she chased flavors and textures.

Margarita Kallas-Lee
I grew up between kitchens. My grandfather was a chef in Kyiv, and my grandmother ran a kitchen in Latvia. My great-grandmother’s Ukrainian dacha featured a vegetable garden and had berry bushes scattered throughout her property. I remember helping her harvest garlic, which she used to make her incredible tomato-and-onion salad. These meals brought us together, and that was what made them so special.
At thirteen, I began modeling. I spent years traveling and working, but what stayed constant was the quiet joy I found in pastry. I would read cookbooks in hotel rooms and bring sweets to friends at school. Eventually, I started choosing kitchens over castings. I traded runways for prep tables and never looked back.
I almost enrolled in culinary school in New York while modeling, but Phillip, now my husband, convinced me to invest not in tuition, but in kitchens. It was the best decision I could have made. I staged with people who inspired me and learned through repetition, patience, and obsession.
When we moved to Chicago, I stepped into my first real restaurant kitchen. The pastry prep room was tiny. Everyone moved with purpose. It was intimidating and felt very much like the first day of middle school. But I showed up. I kept showing up. That became a turning point in my life.
What inspires me most has never changed. When I am cooking, I am inspired. Ideas come easily to me when I am in motion. Tough times never took that from me. In fact, the more challenging moments have brought me closer to my food. I create my best work when everything else is loud and I need to return to myself in the kitchen.
One moment that marked me was the development of my sourdough. It took a year to make a version that felt promising and nine years to make one that I was pleased with. That bread tells you everything about who I am. I do not give up. Ever.
My philosophy is built on intention. Desserts should feel personal, precise, and unforgettable. Every flavor should be placed with purpose. I create dishes from scratch, refine slowly, and edit until each bite tells a clear story. Leadership works the same way. In our kitchens, communication sets the tone. I want to see people grow not only as cooks, but as humans. I guide with expectation and with care.
When we went through incredibly difficult periods, it was our team that carried us. One of my pastry cooks has been with me for ten years. That is not staff. That is family.
The night we earned two Michelin stars, one for Pasta|Bar LA and one for Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Montecito, was surreal. I was three months pregnant. After years of sacrifice, risk, and faith in our craft, that acknowledgment felt like a deep breath. It validated our belief that excellence and humanity can coexist.
I love the craft, the teamwork, and the moments when a guest’s face says, “This is special.” We’re working to be the change we want to see. At Scratch Restaurants Group, Phillip and I offer benefits many entry-level cooks and dishwashers rarely see: health insurance, a 401(k), and paid parental leave. We prioritize the team because great hospitality starts with taking care of our people. When teams feel safe, supported, and respected, food and service quality improve, turnover decreases, and the industry becomes more sustainable. That’s the future we want to build.
We want an industry where great hospitality equals great workplaces. As Phillip and I focus on making this change in the industry, we hope it translates into all restaurant groups and industry employees, who are the driving force behind restaurant success.
Credits to @sarahblockphoto for the first 3 photos.
Secret Sauce
- What’s the most unexpected ingredient you’ve ever worked with, and how did it change your perspective on cooking?
Uni. I developed a white-chocolate bonbon with an uni ganache by freeze-drying the roe and folding the powder into the ganache. It sounds outrageous, but the result was clean, savory-sweet, and deeply aromatic; not fishy or odd. That success flipped a switch for me: if uni can sing in a dessert, then the boundaries are endless. It pushed me to treat “savory” ingredients as tools for balance, umami for depth, and salinity for lift, and to question every assumption about what belongs in pastry.
- What’s your “guilty pleasure” meal?
LAY’S® Limón Flavored Potato Chips
- A food trend that you hate and why?
I don’t hate trends. I worry they sometimes flatten creativity. Chasing an imagined “industry standard” can make plates look the same, especially when people think Michelin requires a specific style of plating. It doesn’t. Cook your point of view. Plate with intention, not imitation. Authenticity reads louder than trends.
- What’s the craziest shift you’ve ever worked in the kitchen? What happened, and how did you manage to get through it?
When we opened Pasta|Bar Austin, I was 39 weeks pregnant.
5. What happened, and how did you manage to get through it?
Mid-service, a cook asked if I was okay because my ankles were literally purple. I hadn’t noticed. I was so locked in. I sat on a milk crate for two minutes, took a breath, and then finished service. It was intense, a little crazy, and oddly beautiful. We had a tight crew, and guests were having a great night. That shift reminded me how far passion and a supportive team can carry you, and how important it is to listen to your body too.
- What tips would you give to other cooks and chefs to help them navigate their culinary careers and find peace amid the chaos of the kitchen?
Discipline is everything. Show up ready to grow because it keeps you sharp, focused, and evolving. Lead well. Your communication sets the tone, so build a supportive, inspiring, respectful kitchen. You also should take notes because you won’t remember every detail, and today’s notes become tomorrow’s systems. Ask why. Curiosity accelerates mastery, deepening your understanding of techniques, flavors, and processes. And protect your mindset. Energy is contagious, so a steady, positive attitude can calm chaos and lift the whole team, especially on tough days.
- What’s an underrated ingredient and why?
Oxtail, I rarely see it on menus. It is not only good for you, but there is so much you can do with it.
8. What’s a must-try dish from your kitchen or the one you’re proudest to have prepared?
My sourdough. It’s one of the first things on the menu at Pasta|Bar in Austin and Los Angeles. We serve it with my housemade cultured butter and high-grade olive oil. The sourdough starter is 59 years old, and I’ve nurtured it since we opened our first restaurant 13 years ago. I take pride in my sourdough, which I feel I’ve finally perfected after nine years of tinkering. It’s personal, and it sets the tone for the whole experience.
About Your City!
Austin
- If Anthony Bourdain or a chef came to your city, what would be the perfect tour itinerary from breakfast to dinner?
Have pastries at Abbey Jane in Dripping Springs. Have lunch at Sushi YUME. Pizza as a little snack before dinner at All Day. For dinner, go to Roccos, followed by after-dinner drinks at Strangelove.





