A Local Ingredient That Transformed a Chef’s Career

I was born in Neiva, Huila, Colombia. Since I was a kid, I’ve been deeply involved in the cooking industry thanks to my parents, who have owned a restaurant for over 30 years. However, despite loving cooking and the joy food brings to the table, I was taking the ‘comfortable route’ by simply working in our family restaurant and contributing to the continued success of my parents’ business plan.

This meant going with the flow, cooking the restaurant’s traditional menu, with no real contribution beyond hard work. But then the pandemic arrived, hitting us hard. Those were challenging times, but they forced us to step out of our comfort zone, marking what I now consider my real creative beginning.

There’s a traditional salty biscuit from my hometown called Bizcocho de Achira, made from sagu flour, fresh cheese, and butter – cheese, and butter – something I’d eaten all my life and always found amazing! I created a cake using Achira powder and Arequipe. We used it as a side business during the pandemic shutdowns, and I was blown away by how people enjoyed it. It took me from ‘survival mode’ to a more business-oriented and creative approach. This cake also opened many doors for me. For example, I sent one to Harry Sasson, a renowned chef and respected member of the Colombian restaurant community. He asked to meet with me to discuss it, leading to an opportunity to spend a few months in his kitchen, learning from him and his team. This was one of the most enriching experiences of my life.

I’ve found inspiration in working with and learning more about our local products, such as quesillo yaguareño (a special fresh cheese from a small town near Neiva), arepas oreja de perro (a soft tortilla made from cornmeal), cholupa (a local fruit), and coffee from the mountains of Huila. I now incorporate these ingredients into recipes I create in our restaurant, and in a gourmet fast seafood brand that I created called Maria Ceviche.

As part of my challenges and learning process I also had the opportunity to spend a few months in Likoké, a restaurant with one Michelin star in France  run by Guido Niño Torres, a Colombian chef.

My inspiration comes from the richness of the region I’m from, and I dream that people from other parts of Colombia and the world will get to know more about Huila, its food, and the magical landscape we have.